The flat is owned by an incredibly hospitable mother and son, who kindly rented it out (fully furnished - with extensive Russian book collection!) for the next three months. It took a couple scalding showers to learn that one need only pre-heat the water tank for about an hour before showering. Talk about spoiled -- it puts into perspective all those times I typically "jump in the shower" back in the States; such things were an overlookable luxury, until now.
